Antique Thewa Riviere Necklace

A rare mid-19th century Victorian Thewa work rivière style necklace, set in silver with shimmering plaques of blue and green glass decorated with animals and flowers worked in fine gold.

Details: Measuring approximately 18 1/4" long, the plaques are 1/2" wide. The original antique box clasp is in strong working order. Not marked for metal content but the cups for the glass pieces test to at least 900 silver, as does the clasp. The gold motifs are fine gold (22k-24k) The jump ring connectors are mostly base metal. 

Condition: In excellent antique condition with a rich patina and some areas of wear, with one antique repair to a connection only seen on the back. There are some areas of gold work missing, though very difficult to notice when worn. The necklace has a slight curve when stretched out which follows the curve of the neck when worn. Please examine the photographs, we consider them to be an integral part of the description. 

History: A traditional jewelry craft that dates back a few centuries, Thewa work is produced by heat-fusing designs pierced in fine gold sheets to pieces of colored glass (usually blue or green in the earliest pieces). Developed in the 18th century in the town of Pratapgarh, in Rajasthan, India by a goldsmith named Nathu Lak Sonewal, the process has been kept a tight secret, propitiatory within the Sonewal family for generations, but only passed down among the male descendants. It was believed that if the female members of the family learned the craft, control over the work and it’s quality would weaken; not because it was thought women couldn’t keep a secret or do sloppier work, but traditionally, married daughters move away from their father’s oversight to live with their husband’s family, while married sons remain close to home to work the family business. The designs usually focus on mythological and religious themes or celebrate naturalistic motifs using skillfully designed flora & fauna.