Georgian Black Dot Paste Brooch

A rare Georgian black dot paste brooch, circa 1770, designed in a graceful spray motif, to emulate a posy of flowers or buds, crafted in sterling silver with a rose gold backing.

As a wedding accessory it would be fabulous on a tux lapel!

This sort of "pea pod" design originated in 17th century France as a decorative motif; the form of an elongated curved leaf-shape or a diminishing row of gems, like peas in a peapod.

The attachment beds of the findings lead us to conclude this may have orginally been part of a larger brooch or stomacher that was converted to a smaller piece later in its history.

Details: Measuring approximately 1 3/4 long and 1 3/8" wide. Not marked for metal content but tests to solid karat gold (around 10k) and silver.

Condition: In excellent condition with a glamorous sparkle and some light rubbing to the tops of the paste visible with a jeweler's loupe. The hinge and clasp are both in strong working order.

History: Georges Strass, an 18th century Viennese jeweler, is usually credited with inventing paste in 1730, although there is some evidence he was one of two jewelers who developed a successful formula for this type of lead glass, which when hand-cut resembles the brilliance and sparkle of genuine diamond. Developed primarily as an imitation of the more expensive gemstone to thwart highway robbers who might make off with the jewelry of blinged out wealthy travelers, it quickly became popular in its own right for its beautiful fire.

Jewelry and personal ornament (as well as everything else) was handmade in the 18th century and for the wealthy this meant even their buttons were crafted by master jewelers. At that time paste and gemstone alike were usually set in closed back mountings with foil behind the stones to better reflect the candlelight that lit the era. The gold backing for silver pieces such as this, either set with genuine stones or paste, appeared in the later 18th century as a way to protect fabrics from tarnish. Dry cleaning didn't exist so it was more cost effective to add the gold than replace or try to clean expensive silks and velvets.

Black dots of pitch or tar were often added to give the illusion of an open culet, and better emulate an old mine-cut diamond.