Georgian Two Row Rose Cut Diamond Ring

A late 18th-century Georgian ring, featuring a central foiled rose-cut diamond framed by rows of smaller diamonds all in sterling silver cut-down collets; the split-shoulder 14k yellow gold band has delicately hand-engraved details extending around the entirety of the hoop.

The cut-down collet technique, sometimes referred to as pinch mounting, allowed a tight fit, which was especially important for foiled or irregularly shaped gems such as these glittery rose-cuts with their romantic smoky flash.

Details: Measuring approximately 5/16" north to south at the center front, tapering through the shoulders to 1.82 mm at the center back. The curved face with its closed flat back makes it very comfortable on the finger.

Size: 7; not resizable.

Condition: In excellent, very antique condition, with a rich patina and general darkening of the foiling behind the stones. A few of the diamonds show age-related wear, with some surface reaching inclusions. There is evidence of antique repair using gold solder not lead. The ring has been examined and is in sound wearable condition.

History: Backing gemstones with foils was common practice in the Georgian period of the 18th and early 19th century as a way to enhance the reflective qualities and color of a jewel. The settings would be individually crafted to exactly fit the stone, and closed back to emphasize the effect of the foiling.

Care: Foil-backed diamonds should never be immersed in water: remove before showering, dish washing, water skiing, etc. as moisture could get behind the stone and cause the metal foil to oxidize and darken. An accidental splash shouldn't be a problem but you don't want to submerge the ring for any period of time.