Georgian Black Dot Paste Flower Brooch

A sweet late 18th century Georgian black dot paste botanical brooch crafted in silver with a gold backing, designed as a graceful single-stem flower. Little pins like this were used to hold the ends of a fichu or scarf in place, or decorate a neckline with a bit of sparkle to attract admiring eyes.

Details: Measuring approximately 1" long and 5/8" wide.

Condition: In excellent antique condition with a rich patina and some light rubbing to the tops of the paste visible with a jeweler's loupe. The hinge and clasp are both in strong working order.

History: Georges Strass, an 18th century Viennese jeweler, is usually credited with inventing paste in 1730, although there is some evidence he was one of two jewelers who developed a successful formula for this type of lead glass, which when hand-cut resembles the brilliance and sparkle of genuine diamond. Developed primarily as an imitation of the more expensive gemstone to thwart highway robbers who might make off with the jewelry of blinged out wealthy travelers, it quickly became popular in its own right for its beautiful fire.

Jewelry and personal ornament (as well as everything else) was handmade in the 18th century and for the wealthy this meant even their buttons were crafted by master jewelers. At that time paste and gemstone alike were usually set in closed back mountings with foil behind the stones to better reflect the candlelight that lit the era. The gold backing for silver pieces such as this, either set with genuine stones or paste, appeared in the later 18th century as a way to protect fabrics from tarnish. Dry cleaning didn't exist so it was more cost effective to add the gold than replace or try to clean expensive silks and velvets.

Black dots of pitch or tar were often added to give the illusion of an open culet, and better emulate an old mine-cut diamond.